FAQs

What do I do when unit is stuck on the flush cycle?

It is important to remember the flush timer if you are diagnosing a problem on a unit that will not start. Rotating the cam wheel clockwise will advance the timer. This will allow the unit to start if it was off on a periodic flush. The timer motor runs continuously when the power switch is ON. There are no adjustments to the length of the flush time. The flush period however, can be adjusted to occur at a specific time each day. This can be done by rotating the cam wheel until the micro-switch opens. The unit will flush every 12 hours from that specific time.

In order for the gear motor and compressor to start, the reservoir must be full and both float switches must be in the up position (closed). A full reservoir indicates that the inlet water valve, dual float switch, and water control relay have operated. It also indicates that control voltage, (24 volts A/C) should be present. This can be checked across terminals 1 & 2 on the timer board. If control voltage is not present, check the 1 amp buss type fuse located on the front of the control box. This fuse protects the control circuit (transformer secondary). If the fuse is OK, check the control transformer primary for 120 volts.

The first thing you need to do is remove all the ice from the bin. This will prevent any of the cleaning solution from contaminating the ice. Next, turn the water off and drain the water sump tank. Depending on the model of the unit there are several ways to accomplish this. On most small KM’s, there is a drain or suction hose that you can pull off and let the water drain inside the bin. In some models the overflow pipe can also be removed to allow the sump to drain, turning the pipe counter-clockwise will allow it to be removed. On the stackable KM’s, there is a plug in the middle of the ice drop zone, toward the front of the unit, which can be removed to empty the sump. KML units have an automatic drain switch, which will allow the technician to simply use the units water pump to drain the sump. A drain plug is also included on the KML models so that the entire reservoir can be drained.

Why does my unit have long freeze times and/or large cubes?

You remember that KM series control boards styles B, C, and Alpine have a 60 minute back-up freeze protection timer. This timer will automatically switch the unit to harvest, if the float switch does not open within 60 minutes. A 60 minute freeze time will utilize all the water in the reservoir to make ice and possibly cause the pump to suck air or cavitate (form bubbles) towards the end of the cycle. Adding two and two together, 60 minute cycles plus huge cubes equals a float switch stuck in the up or closed position. Likely, the float switch is sticking due to scale build-up. You should clean the float switch with ice machine cleaner and check the operation with a quality ohm meter. Simply replace a float switch that doesn’t check properly after you clean it.

When restarting an icemaker after a period of non-use, first clean and sanitize the icemaker as outlined in the Cleaning and Sanitizing Instructions section of the appliance’s instruction manual.

Recently there have been several inquiries concerning the provision in our icemakers to prevent back flow from the icemaker into the potable water supply. If there is not a provision to prevent this, during a period of negative pressure of the potable water supply, water from within the icemaker could be siphoned back into the potable water supply, causing contamination. the built in air gap described above are secondary back up to the water solenoid valve. The water solenoid valves are normally closed and in most situations prevent any back siphonage from happening.

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